File the board join bumps off the bFlex.

I flattened the feet on the LEDs These are USVOH Seouls -nice for bush rides.

AA on the LED seats.

Stick in the LEDs - negative following positive around -clamp the optic down on top till dry.

Switch and Delrin holder.

Potted switch with Sikaflex Marine Silicone.

Push into recess while wet -excess will squeeze thru wire hole. Sikaflex is easy to remove once dry -very messy stuff to work with though.

Wired the bFlex -power and remote wires.

Wired the LEDs -made sure i left just enough wire on the input wires so i could get the bFlex and holder together.

Put a dab of 'liquid tape' on the feet where they are soldered to stop any chance of shorting on the body under vibration or such.

Also check + to ground on the LEDs to make sure there is no connection - though this is very unlikely to be a problem.

Soldered on the bFlex.

Clipped on the bFlex holder after doing a power-up test.

Pushed it in and sorted the LED power wires(which push thru a bit out the top).

Invest in some canned air and isopropyl alcohol for cleaning the LEDs and surfaces. Silicone grease on the rear o-ring.

Screw on the back cover tight.

Same on the top o-ring.

Use a clamp with appropriate blocks to squish the o-ring tight -screw the bezel down.This also make it very hard for the bezel to ever come off by itself.

Screw in the wire fitting -these particular wires (teflon 20 & 24G) had to be in a certain order to fit thru the hole(tight fit).

This pic is showing the 6mm airline hose which pushes firmly into the gland to protect the wires -I put some silicone grease on the end as there is an o-ring inside the gland.

Solder on connections and sealed with Sikaflex Marine Silicone -stops water from traveling along the wire covers.

The finished product, complete with power & remote switch lead, well done.

.: thank you!

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